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Pastoruri glacier. A glacier on death row

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This so pessimistic title that we have given to today's article is a reflection of what happens today in most of the glaciers of the planet He Glacier Shepherd, is undoubtedly one more in the long list of glaciers that will disappear in the next 50 years and unfortunately places as surprising as this will not be seen in generations to come.


Pastoruri Glacier - A recessionary glacier

Pastoruri glacier. A glacier on death row

What to see in the Pastoruri glacier

The local people say that there was no small ski resort at the foot of the city more than 20 years ago Snowy Shepherd, which was even used to hold winter sports tournaments. The snow it reached as far as today a parking, but climate change With the help of the insatiable human being, he is pushing back this natural beauty between 10 and 20 meters a year, which allows you to easily calculate that the Glacier will disappear in 20 years.

Run travelers if you want to see this natural beauty, because it really is worth it, even if more than one has a bad time and not just to see a death in slow motion, but to have to suffer more than 5000 meters high where the glacier rests.

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A route suitable for all audiences

It was a sunny day at the end of September in the city of Huaraz. The light came through the window through thin curtains and after half an hour of intense annoyance he woke me up. I don't know if it was a thing of destiny, but that day the alarm didn't ring and this desperate light made me not lose the van that took me to the Pastoruri Glacier.

Having just taken the transport, we went through a group of faithful followers of an aspiring mayor. Peru he was in elections and a certain part of the population lives it with intensity, placing posters with the whole thing, whether you want it on your wall or not.

After 2 and a half hours we arrive at the entrance of the Huascaran National Park. It was time to stretch my legs and pay the 10 soles It costs your access.


Pastoruri A glacier on death row

The trip began to get exhausting and someone with whom we shared a van began to suffer from the symptoms of altitude sickness. A pair of Coca leaves And voila, with this you will endure at least a couple of hours, said one of the guides after making a couple of brief stops before the Glacier. One of them was express, just 5 minutes to see a spring of carbonated water. The other was to see a series of pools of clear water and a formation of plants calledPullo raimondi that at such altitude they suffer from the Jurassic.


Pastoruri A glacier on death row

The ascent to the port that took us to our destination began and with it the enjoyment of the places that dissipated in the immediate vicinity. Is it the Pastoruri Glacier? Unfortunately not, given its north orientation, very conducive to the Andean sun.

The access parking was empty, with just our van and another. We are not in high season and soon the long would begin rainy season, that forced on occasion to cut the road when a fall heavy snowfall, is in turn less and less frequent.


Pastoruri A glacier on death row

I looked at the clock and we were 4900 meters high. My acclimatization was very good after climbing the Chachani 6082m high a few days before. Anyway, there were some horses for those who felt weaker for the modest price of 15 soles. What the riders did not know is that the horses did not reach the glacier but would leave them halfway….


Pastoruri A glacier on death row

After 30 minutes on the road we finally see the Pastoruri Glacier. A large mass of ice that was born from a mountain of a completely opposite color. Unlike other glaciers, this one is quite silent, its guts barely creak, but the cancer that circulates in your veins has no cure. It is a glacier without a future.


Pastoruri GlacierTan calculated is his death, which is designing an alternative route called Climate Change Route, where he crosses other points of the glacier in search of the fossils that have been found after ice removal. Marked on RedWe can see from ferns and other types of plants, as well as the occasional animal footprint, but without a doubt its beauty is absolute. Hard to forget whites adorn the pastoruri glacier silhouette, accompanied by gray tones that is nothing more than the earth that drags the ice in its reverse.
Pastoruri Glacier Despite not being shown in the photographs, the glacier is bounded by yellow bands anti-tourists not very effective, although there is a guard who releases a loud voice every time a clever ignores the warnings.
Pastoruri Glacier

We take the turn along the path that starts behind the viewpoint, delighting in all the fossils that there are along the way and the numerous lakes that have been created with the thaw. In fact in 2014, more than 1000 new lagoons They have been identified in Peru, a devastating fact.

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Practical data - Advice on the Pastoruri glacier

When to go to Pastoruri?

The best time is to do it in the dry season, which covers the months April until the end of September. In October the rains begin and you can find the glacier covered by clouds or a movie day.

How to do it?

For the cost you have, it is best to do it through a tour that we can hire in Huaraz. We really liked itChavin Tours, pioneers in this kind of activities throughout the Huaylas Alley.

Where to stay?

We stayed at the Hotel Peruvian Switzerland in the city of Huaraz. Just 5 minutes from downtown and in a fairly quiet area with hardly any traffic.

Where to eat?

There are some places, not always open, in the parking lot of Pastoruri, so it is advisable to bring your own food or check if the tour is included.

Once back in Huaraz We recommend 2 restaurants:

  • Bruno Pizza : a restaurant run by a Frenchman and a Peruvian who make a very tasty pasta and pizza.
  • Uncle Enrique : their specialty is sausages and imported beers.

What does it cost?

The entrance to Huascaran National Park It costs 10 soles. If we stay more days (up to 21) for a trekking it costs 65 soles. Upon arrival at Pastoruri, the bathrooms cost 1 sun, used by everyone after 3 hours of road.

If you are tired, they sell Coca leaves at the entrance and rental of a horse it costs 15 soles.

What to wear

You need to take 3 layers and sometimes a down jacket or primaloft. Temperatures can be very low in some seasons. He too Looktamol It helps reduce the effects of altitude sickness or even chewing coca leaves that you can buy in any market. There are people who wear theSorojchi Pills, much more expensive but more effective than coca leaves.

Other excursions in the Cordillera Blanca

If you want to see glacial lagoons we recommend you visit theLlanganuco Lagoons.

If yours are temples, Chavin It will not disappoint you.

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